Girls Trip to Santa Fe
Four days - three women - too little sleep - one adventure. Let’s go!
Once bonded as colleagues in our twenties, my two girlfriends and I had been separated by new jobs, an entire ocean, a pandemic, and now, many years later and firmly in our thirties, we planned to reunite for four days in the Southwest. Our choice of venue had a lot to do with good weather and Georgia O’Keeffe, and a little to do with being nearly the West coast, where we’re all from. It was convenient, as far as travel goes, and nobody in our trio had been before. It would be a fresh adventure all around.
This issue of Traveling With Grace is a four-day diary of vacationing in and around Santa Fe.
To start, fly into ABQ. Secondly, a rental car is a must (so much of what makes Santa Fe special is actually outside of Santa Fe). The rest is about loving art, food, and each other.
Day 0 / travel day
Santa Fe is about 60 minutes from Albuquerque, an easy, straight-shot drive through a blue state. We arrived after dark, and hurried into our dinner dresses and out the door for a celebratory welcome meal.
For night one we went for fancy with a reservation at Sazon. The meal began with mole tasting and a curated margarita menu. Even for those of us who don't imbibe, their alcohol-free classic margarita was impeccably made — not too sweet, not too sour, just the perfect crisp beverage.
Back at our Airbnb, we settled in for an early rise the next morning. Ever the group to commit to a theme, we sought accommodations in the southwest style of white-washed walls and exposed beams, earthy browns, burnt reds, and deep yellows. We loved ours, lucky number 13, part of the Campanilla Compound. It was clean, comfortable, and gorgeously walkable at about 10 minutes to The Plaza.
Day 1 / Georgia O’Keeffe
Georgia O’Keeffe was a rockstar for her time. She counted the Eames’ and Mies van der Rohe as close friends. Ansel Adams was on speed dial. Calvin Klein would helicopter in and host photoshoots on her property. Her wealth was unique for an artist and for a woman. She actually earned money during her lifetime, enough to afford a dilapidated home, renovate it completely, plant the property with food, herbs, berry bushes, and fruit trees, and hire a gardener to harvest it all. She owned cars, which facilitated her independent lifestyle and allowed her to paint as much as possible. Her home and studio are located in Abiquiú, an hour's drive from Santa Fe, where we saw firsthand how she created a life that, seemingly in every way, supported her creative mind. Reservations are required and absolutely worth it for this special opportunity.
We returned to Santa Fe to eat lunch at The Shed. Housed in a hacienda dating to 1692 and operated as a family-run, local institution since 1953, this was a must-eat destination for us. That morning, I’d learned Georgia O’Keeffe loved green chile, cheesy, chicken enchiladas, so that’s what I ordered. She also famously preferred her Coors in a martini glass, which wasn’t on the menu today but something I look forward to trying! (the NA option anyway)
We spent the afternoon strolling through The Plaza, weaving in and out of shops to peruse the endless turquoise bobbles. The Plaza is designed for visitors. Local jewelry makers and painters (like R.C. Gorman) display their work here and it's easy to get caught up in the fun of shopping. IMO, we could have gotten more out of the experience with a historical walking tour so we could appreciate what we were looking at. For instance, the nation’s oldest church is here and I had no idea. Next time!
Day 2 / Hot Air Balloons
I only rise before the sun when a flight calls for it and today’s was a special one: hot air balloons! Balloons go out in the early morning, our caravan of vans wobbling over dirt roads through the morning dusk. By the time the sun was up, the wind was just perfect, at about 7 mph. We floated along with it, above sagebrush, over hillsides, and past jackrabbits. Like many new experiences, the anticipation was more nerve wracking than the activity itself. It’s actually incredibly peaceful up there. It’s quiet (except for the propane tank pumping fire) and meditative. We loved it, and so did our hosts. The Santa Fe Balloons folks are uncommonly passionate. Our pilot and crew were superb. They hyped up the magic and they made us feel safe. 10/10 — would balloon again.
We returned to our Airbnb with time to regroup and head back towards The Plaza. After revisiting a few turquoise pieces from the day before, we caught a quick slice of quiche and were off to the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum. This was one activity where reality departed from our expectations. The museum is actually quite small, as most of O’Keeffe’s notable works are housed in other museums around the world. Still, there were a few shell paintings I enjoyed, as well as a handful of portraits of O’Keeffe by photographer Alfred Stieglitz, her husband from 1924 to his death in 1946.
Georgia O'Keeffe, ca. 1921 by Alfred Stieglitz
As if we hadn’t accomplished enough today already, we added Meow Wolf to the afternoon. Part immersive art exhibit, part drug-free trip, part apocalyptic-mystery. Imagine (if you can!) walking into the refrigerator and arriving in a futuristic command center, or sliding through a washing machine to arrive in a neon underwater forest. Or playing the ribcage of a tyrannosaurus rex like a marimba as it lights up in pinks and blues. Every single moment is unexpected and delightful—a true feat of collective imagination and creativity. When we popped back into the parking lot, my friend aptly put it, “wow that was like a casino.” Photos do not do it justice; you’ll have to visit for yourself.
Day 3 / Taos
Taos was a highlight for all of us — not just on this visit, but in life. The Taos Pueblo is home to the Taos people, its adobe structures preserved in their original form for over 1,000 years. It's so impressive, so rare, so deserving of our protection and reverence, it's been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Galleries abound, filled with clay pots fired in the traditional horse hair style, jewelry of turquoise, pearls, and coral, and sculptures big and small depicting the earth and the mother, the protector and the trickster — all handmade by local native artists. Don’t mistake Taos for a tourist stop though. The Taos live here today, were raised here, were told bedtime stories by their grandparents in these very rooms. This is their generational home.
I’m still in disbelief that we were allowed to walk inside these precious buildings and honored to have met these people. My advice is to spend your money here. Support their business. Then ask about their art. “Who made this? What does it represent? What is it used for? Who is it used by?” Be curious. Show respect by showing interest. One artist, a silversmith and painter, shared that he doesn't “usually get to this part in the story” because most people just see jewelry, then leave. Instead I got an education in the Zuni-style of jewelry-making and learned they are considered the apex of traditional ceremonial events.
Lastly, don’t leave without stopping for a snack of fry bread, handmade by a grandmother-granddaughter duo, and picking up a few bags of piñón coffee beans—a perfect Christmas gift for the family back home.
Back in Santa Fe, we had our final meal at Cafe Pasqual’s, which came recommended many times over, and did not disappoint. The restaurant is compact, muraled, festive—and became our most memorable meal. We started with the pupusas and the plantain chips, then dined on slow simmered pork wrapped in a banana leaf beside cilantro rice and pickled vegetables. Pasqual’s is also famous for their brunch, but either way, reservations are a must.
Day 4 / travel day
On our final morning we returned to the bakery that had been providing us pastry sustenance all weekend: Sage Bakehouse. This is a local’s spot, where folks bring their dogs or meet for weekly gossip or crossword puzzles. The cinnamon roll was my favorite, but they also do an excellent turkey on whole wheat with sweet dijon mustard.
We drove the hour back to ABQ where I delivered my friends for their flights before taking an afternoon with my aunt and uncle, two ABQ locals. They took me to lunch at The Range where the portions are huge and all three of us ordered the green chile cheesy chicken enchiladas. I brought my leftovers to the airport and was heartened to discover that green chile is TSA approved! I think this may be just a New Mexico thing….
The southwest skies had been dancing and dramatic for us all weekend with the most beautiful fluffy clouds—and the flight home was their finale.
Notes for next time…
Four days felt like a lot during the planning phases, but we could have easily filled five, or even six. There is an entire area called Museum Hill we missed, where the Botanical Garden and the Museum of International Folk Art lives. A picturesque stroll down Canyon Road to explore the galleries could have replaced some of our Plaza time. Vince Kadlubek, founder of Meow Wolf, recently opened up a restaurant, Escondido, which I’d like to try. And then there is always a spa day, which I enjoy so much when traveling. Ojo came recommended. I’d put two more day trips on the calendar, one to Los Alamos if you’re Oppenheimer crazed, and another to Ra Paulette's Hand-Carved Caves. Lastly, if you’re feeling outdoorsy, Bandelier National Park is near Los Alamos and would pair well with Taos as it protects the ancestral and traditional lands of at least 23 tribal nations, including dwellings built into cliffs dating from 1150-1600 AD.
🖤