A Jolly Holiday Across the Pond
LONDON
On a perfect November day, the sky in London is clear blue and sunny, the air bites, and all around you the city prepares for Christmas by decking itself in enormous garlands and twinkling lights. On days like these, I like to order my coffee to-go and sip it as I stroll along the Thames admiring the bridges and the magic. November may sound like an odd time to visit London, but after doing exactly that more times than I count, I’ve come to prefer it to any other time of year.
DAY ONE
This is your big walking and sight-seeing day. Skip making plans to see Big Ben, Parliament, Buckingham Palace, or Tower Bridge though. A visual glance is all you need unless you have a specific interest. You’ll see all that on your way to The Globe Theatre anyway, which by the way is a recreation. Imagine wandering around in utter awe of the greatness that took place here only to find out… it was built in 1997. I felt duped. More Disney than history. If you want the real real, you’re going to need to walk about three minutes down the block and around the corner.
The original Globe Theatre was closed by the Puritans in 1642 and in its place is a plaque marking your arrival. I appreciate the value of a replica for educational purposes, but the ground on which the Globe originally stood is infinitely more interesting to me, more truthful. I spent a few minutes at the plaque, daydreaming, imagining how the streetscape must have looked back then.
From here, walk a half hour to the London Eye, which is a must-do on a clear day. It’s horrendously touristy, but there is nothing I love more than getting up high in a new place and catching the view. London is vast and it stretches to the horizon on all sides. A change in perspective always helps orient the mind and body, which makes me feel more connected to a new place.
You’ve walked all day and you’re going to be hungry. Tonight you’re having dinner in Shoreditch, an edgy arts district with incredible Indian food. Head to Dishoom if you’re feeling hip, but honestly you can’t go wrong with the plethora of options along Brick Lane.
The cherry on top of your day is a stroll past Thierry Noir murals, a real treat! Thierry is a historically and culturally significant figure, most notably for his work painting the Berlin Wall. His work is bright, cheeky, and can be spotted across London, if you know where to look.
DAY TWO
Let’s not fool ourselves. It also rains in London. It’s a damp place where the rain comes down for hours on end. But don’t despair because this is your chance to wear your chicest wool coat and take yourself to the Victoria & Albert Museum.
Pacific Northwesterners will feel right at home at the Victoria & Albert Museum where you’ll be welcomed by an enormous Chihuly dangling from the rafters. I was so taken by it, I burst into tears. A morning here is not enough, neither is the whole day, so plan ahead for any special exhibitions you’d like to see. If you prefer modern art then visit the Tate Modern. Or The British Museum for antiquities. But I prefer the V&A. I like the classics.
If you didn’t drink tea, did you really visit London? Afternoon tea is a must, and you must make a reservation. I know this because I didn’t, and while I got a table at a darling little spot, next time I plan to go really GRAND. The Ritz, Harrods, The Wolseley, The Stafford… you get the idea.
For the evening, catch a show. The Royal Ballet is arguably the best ballet in the world, so if you appreciate art, make this a priority. If the ballet is not in season or isn’t your thing, then get tickets to any show in the West End. I’ve seen “Monty Python’s Spamalot,” “The Book of Mormon,” and “Phantom of the Opera” there. It is London’s Broadway and always has an abundance of musical theater to see. You can have dinner before or after the show at any restaurant you choose, no reservation required. Tip: don’t over complicate this meal. The show is the real star of the night.
DAY THREE
November is the tourist off-season, which means you’ll be around more actual Londoners. I don’t know about you, but I like this. I like locals doing local things, like waiting in the coffee line or commuting home from work on double-decker buses. There’s something special about being in the midst of this particular holiday action.
So, eat like the locals eat and book a table for Sunday roast. This is brunch on steroids, but the fare is more akin to a Christmas dinner. Roast is served with plates piled high, lamb, beef, chicken, yorkshire pudding (yum!), root vegetables, and leafy vegetables, which keeps restaurants bustling for hours. I recommend The Albion in Islington, a delightful spot for its cracking fires and wisteria-draped entrance.
Lastly, walk off the roast with an afternoon of shopping. London has some of the best with Covent Garden, Marylebone High Street, and Picadilly ranking as my personal favorites for their mix of mainstream and local brands, clothing, jewelry, and book shops. Remember though, the charm of visiting in November is the Christmas cheer and this means holiday markets everywhere. This is where the local makers, international crafts, and vats of hot cocoa really shine. Years ago I bought a delicate bracelet here that I still wear when I’m feeling summery. It’s low-key made from straw, and wrapped in gold wire. When you’re ready for real decadence—and a mid afternoon pick me up—head to Fortnum & Mason for their candyland of sweet treats. You’ll be dazzled by the confections here, colorful and perfected, and tempted by everything. But keep your focus on the macarons because they are simply the best.
And with that you’ve had a fast and furious, decadent and cultured, tasty and festive trip across the pond. November will always be my special season in London.
🖤